3. Italy, the mainland and the islands, 2008

1. from Menton (F) to Rome (I) (339 NM)

In front of us, the Riviera di Ponente, along the ancient Via Aurelia. San Remo, some mega-yachts are passing us, heading for France: to Antibes for maintenance, to Monaco for the Masters of the Grand Prix, to Cannes for the Festival? Or simply, on the way? Bussana Vecchia, the middle-age village, Taggia, Imperia, Diano Marina, the old town of Cervo. The capes, Capo Pino, Capo San Ampeglio, Capo Nero, Capo dell'Arma, Capo Cervo, Capo Mele. Midday is now passed, and the wind is S, 4 kts, but at Capo Mele we are

lucky:we get a delicious15 kts backstay wind and so we reach Marina di Alassio sailing! Like always we get a berth - un posto - on the little-boats pontoon, "Bene, la piccola barca, pontile G", "Grazie!".

We keep the little private island Isoletto Gallinaro on our starboard and set course to Capo Noli. It will be motoring, this morning: the sea is oil-flat and the sun starts her warming-up in a little misty sky.

The Ligurian coast is very typical: a long urbanisation strip - Albenga, Loano, Finale Ligure, Noli, Savona, Albissola Marina, mostly big buildings, then behind but nearby, the high green hinterland and still higher, the Italian Alps. Numerous yacht harbours: Alassio, Loana, Finale Ligure, Savona - Italy's 7th commercial harbour -, Varazze. We cross some super-yachts, a few sailing boats, little fishing boats. At Capo Noli we get 10 kts wind, 029°. To Varazze still 12 miles. We try to sail between Savona and. Varazze with the High aspect. At 3 p.m. we call the port office. Ormeggiatori are waiting to keep our lines.

Marina di Varazze is a luxurious new marina,expensive but very well kept and sheltered. But there is now one problem: the wi-fi of this luxurious marine is out of use, the system didn't work; a new will be installed. A pity for us: we came here, partly for the internet connection and to update our website!

Varazze is a typical very north-Italian popular resort for people of Savona, Genua and Torino. in the narrow streets of this little town it's, on this Friday evening of 25th of April - Liberation day - very busy. A pleasant atmosphere too on the Promenade - the Lungomare. In the old-fashioned Casino - where we are looking for a internet point - in vain at this hour -, a very popular dancing evening is going on; crowded restaurant terraces too, on this public holiday. Varazze has also a lot of nice squares, mainly around the churches.

Suddenly, a pleasant welcome committee appears: four dolphins are playing in our bow wave, and before they dive, they give us a brief look, an enticing wink to encourage our progression. Later on, due to the numerous boats, the sea is becoming rather wild when we are approaching. And then, Portofino appears in all her real postcard beauty.

The mooring is very crowded on this nice Friday afternoon.

At 4.30 p.m. we are at the entrance of Santa Margherita Ligure. But as there are regattas , we can't get a berth here. We are advised to reach Rapallo, 1,5 mile ahead.

In Porto Carlo Riva, the pleasant marina of the Golfo Marconi, we get a berth at a nice, central and quiet place - finally, and this since many months, between two other sailing boats!

27.04.08 Rapallo is an elegant resort: numerous hotels and a nice old town part. Following the Promenade - the lungomare Vittorio Veneto - we reach in 10 minutes the on this Saturday evening very animated centre: despite the coolness, the terraces of the cafés, restaurants, and ice-cream saloons are well occupied. On the Promenade, with nice small gardens and palms, people are strolling, sometimes loud speaking about events and experiences of their life ... a Saturday evening like an other, in Rapallo, Italy, in April!

The seafront shows its typical look: the numerous coloured bath cabins are expecting the summer-holiday-makers. We can imagine, when we see this all now in the early spring, that Rapallo, the sophisticated - to use Rod Heikell's judgment -, will have her summer fever, despite her would-be appearances, la febbre dell'estate...

This afternoon we visit Portofino. First we take the bus to Santa Margherita Ligure, then we walk following the road on the special wooden passerelle, and, finally by the higher situated, nice and well shaded footpath ( walking the whole time along the road should be very dangerous due to the heavy traffic, as we were told by our boat neighbour ).

Beautiful Portofino, very touristic Portofino! Portofino is really an absolute must, but ... we are lucky that we are not mooring here, because the anchorage is well shaken by the numerous tourist boats!

This natural harbour ( Marina di Portofino, with mooring buoys and ormeggiatori ) is surrounded by coloured houses, and on one of the pleasant terraces we savour a delightful cappuccino. Luxurious boutiques and shops, hotels, little churches, splendid houses, a big hotel higher on, and the Castello San Giorgio - from the garden, we have a magnificent view on Portofino, and ... the small cemetery is a beautiful place of eternal quietness ...

29.04.08 Yesterday we could up-date our website: on the Tourist Office we got a list with the internet points. Then, by the bus we reached Santa Margherita Ligure, where we did a pleasant walk in the old town; the Basilica di Santa Margherita (1658) is certainly worth a visit: statue of the Virgo with the Child (1776), fervent worship of the Virgo, N.S. della Rosa, due of numerous miraculous recoveries, beautiful paintings and statues. We just had left the church and were tasting a delicious cappuccino when the first drops were falling ...

Much rain this night and to-day it's still very cloudy, cold and rainy.

Again with the bus: now to Camogli, where tall old houses are enclosing the small picturesque harbour (case delle moglie, "the houses for the - fishermen's-wives", as a guarantee to their fidelity).

01.05.08 Rapallo is a nice spot, and today we enjoy the long weekend atmosphere with again the

passagiata on the Promenade, the animated bath-cabin-quarters - the season starts today - and the crowded terraces. We walk through flowered gardens to the Bagni dei Sogni - a tiny beach with "elioterapia-makers" - and again we savour a cappuccino. In the late afternoon we appreciate the piano recital with voce in the raspberry--pink coloured Auditorio delle Clarisse and we finish our evening with a short presence at the rock-exhibition of popular star Enrico Ruggeri ...

02.05.08 From Rapallo to Portovenere and the Rada di La Spezia. 35 miles to Portovenere, along a very green, wild coast, and the last 10 miles, along the famous Cinque Terre, five still traditional villages, part of the UNESCO patrimony list, and National Park. We are glad to be at sea for enjoying this fascinating coast because in the villages and on the cliff paths, we see an endless multi-coloured ribbon: the innumerable visitors and tourists as a long caterpillar on the green slopes.

At 15H30 we anchor in the sunny Cala delle Fornace behind the NE point of Isola Palmeria, where a lot of boats are anchored but after dinner we are alone in the anchorage and a fresh wind is blowing in; so, we decide to go to Portovenere anchorage on the other side of Isola Palmeria, east of Punta San Pietro. Easily we find a nice place, with good holding in pos. 44°02'850N 09°51'200 E at 50 m off the red buoys marking the mussel beds.

03.05.08 After a quiet night and a pleasant half-a-day, we decide to reach a marina for the coming night: Eric has caught a cold and is feverish. Le Grazie marina has no more berths available and the wind is blowing over the anchorage outside, Porto Lotti has no berths for boats under 10m but they advice us to go to Marina del Fezzano, deeper on the W-side of the gulf of La Spezia, what we do - a small but very pleasant marina, well situated in a peaceful corner of the Rada di La Spezia.

06.05.08 From Fezzano, a pleasant village - but like many - we return to Portovenere by bus. This little town is very touristic and is missing - in our opinion - a real atmosphere: we are a little disappointed, although we find it a beautiful spot, and - of course - we made a short visit to Lord Byron's cave ...

07.05.08 We leave Marina del Fezzano for Boca di Arno and Marina di Pisa, a nice trip along the Tuscan coast and the harbours Carrara - with the impressive white marble "glaciers" of the quarries - and Viareggio a touristic place and a "charge band 5" harbour (Rod Heikell)!

At 2,5 miles from Marina di Pisa we see the outline of Isola di Gorgona, a convict settlement and a natural reserve... It is not easy to find the pontoon of Marinanova between the numerous basic, mainly wooden jetties and other mooring constructions belonging to the small shipyards operating on the right bank of the river river Arno. But once berthing after some mooring difficulties, we appreciate this quiet place from where we can visit Pisa.

In this aristocratic town we find easily the worldwide well known, monumental ensemble of the Campo dei Miracoli, on the Piazza del Duomo: the Duomo, the Torre pendente, the Battistero and the Camposanto. Every visit is an esthetic enjoyment, although the place is often, the whole year, crowded with tourists, and, today, many schools have organised their annual trip to this town, so the lawns around are taken for picnic-activities at lunchtime! So, it's difficult to take "the" picture to "immortalise" our visit ...

Before we return to Bocca d'Arno, we spent some time walking in the narrow streets of the historic quarter: the beautiful Piazza dei Cavalieri - the Palazzo, the church San Stefano and the palazzo della Gherardesca - a last look at the very interesting Santa Maria della Spina church with small statues of the Pisano school. If we are enthusiast about the cultural and artistic aspects of Pisa, we are disappointed about the poor condition of many public buildings, the street surfaces, the parks and gardens, the situation of numerous dustbins and the omni-presence of graffiti! Poor situation for a city and a country where avoiding to pay taxes is a sport!

09.05.08 From Boca di Arno to Marina di Cecina. 25 miles to this small, no nonsense harbour where we want to do a stop-over, waiting for what the weather will be: a deepening low with thunderstorm perturbation is moving northeastwards from W-Algeria.

A nice trip: we can sail for three hours. Cecina mare is a crowded, untidy harbour, but active, with a sailing school, on the mouth of the silting Cecina river. For our draft there is no problem, but 1,50 m is a maximum!

No sign of the new, planned marina, and but in the river, on the harbour entrance 0,25 M up-streams, dredging works are going on. [ update 2013: http://www.portodicecina.it/ ] We get a berth on a quiet place, on the quay, not far from the entrance.

10.05.08 From Marina di Cecina to Porto d'Azzurro (Isola d'Elba). Nice sailing weather when we leave Cecina: wind (ap.) E 15-18 knots, flat see, sunny. We can sail a whole hour and then the wind is turning, and falls.

Porto d'Azzurro is on the E-coast of Elba, at 33 miles from Cecina. At 2 p.m. we approach Elba, and at Punta Falcone, the wind is back: we unfurl the high aspect jib and stop the engine. Good wind, nice track. The outline of the island of Elba is standing out against the blue sky, the sea is steel blue, the sun a little bit pale ... On port, Salivoli harbour, and Piombino, and on starboard, Elba. Then, later on, at port the small island of Palmaiola. Sailing boats, a ferry boat, and suddenly another one, and a fast ferry too: we are not alone here!

Meanwhile the harbour is almost empty, apart from some charter boats. We have to be creative and self supporting because the municipality has decided to renovate the shower and toilet block nów, when the season starts!.

Although we are moored at the quay our berth is quiet, the terraces of the pubs and restaurants are just far enough and the traffic here is very limited.

Elba is a nice island but - even now - very touristic. Green, varied, with gentle hills and deep bays, and a wild coastline; but, suddenly the relief becomes sharp and high to reach the highest point, the Monte Capanne, 1018m. With the Compass walking chart nice explorations are assured, with the 7-euro-one-day-bus-ticket you will cross through the island (tickets at the news-paper kiosk), and for 39 euro you'll rent a Fiat-Panda (9 a.m.- 7 p.m.).

22.05.08 From Elba to Isola del Giglio. After several days of bad weather and heavy rain we leave Elba, at 07.30 a.m. To our waypoint 1M N of the N-point of Isola del Giglio, 30,5 NM, wind SSE 8 kts, cc 135°.

At 10 a.m. Isola di Montecristo is on our starboard, 220°, 20 NM, hardly visible in the mist. Giglio is now at 16 NM and unless the wind becomes SW-ly - like the forecast tells - and increases a little, we have to motor. It's still a little cold at sea: our polar fleece have to give us some sensation of pleasant heat.

From Menton we get bad news: our friends Michel and Maddy have to cancel their Greece cruising, so there will be no meeting ... this year?

At 12 o'clock the wind goes to the SW and we can unfurl our high aspect jib, a little later we read 12kts on our windmeter and we can stop the engine: so, it's sailing that we reach Porto Isola del Giglio!

23.05.08 From Giglio to the Promontorio Argentario. After a short and disturbed night due to our noisy and impolite charter neighbours, and after a sudden but heavy shower in the early morning we leave Giglio at 8 o'clock to reach the Promontorio Argentario and Porto Ercole at 16 NM, cc 095°. The peninsula seems dark and a little threatening, the sea and the sky are announcing a not so nice day! The course allows us to sail in a irregular SSE wind but the sea and the short waves - the swell is opposite to wind and waves - limit our average speed to 4,5 kts. When we approach the high rocky coast, we have to start the engine and some miles later we have to furl the high aspect jib just before we have to give way for a fishing boat. At Porto Ercole we don't get a berth: later this day we will hear that if there are visitors berths ( ten says Rod Heikell ) they are taken by yacht charters, and that six clubs or circoli have the concessions. After a telephone call to Marina di Cala Galera - as expensive, charge band 5, mentioned in the Pilot -, half a mile N-ly, we get a berth for only 21 euro! The marina is very well equipped and after several days we can enjoy a delightful shower! The picturesque, pleasant and touristic small town of Porto Ercole is at 10' walking from Cala Galera (see for details in Kortom).

With a excellent capppuccino we compare our visiting plan and the map in a bar of the Via Cavour, not far from the basilica S.Maria Maggiore***.

Today we will limit our visit: no queue, no details ... Rome today, Rome yesterday, and the day before, and from many days before! !

Rome-today is a city of more than 2,5 million people where present and past are living together.

The Via Cavour takes us to the Colosseo***, an amphitheatre for 50.000 people of the year 80 A.D. The rain is a real present for the many umbrella sellers. "Follow the guide" :Japanese, Dutch, German, Americans, Italians ... the whole world seems to have found the way to Rome!

We prefer the Arco di Constantino***, and alongside the Monte Palatino*** we reach the Forum Romanum*** .

Twelve centuries of Roman civilisation under our feet : the Via Sacra, the Arco of Septimus-Severus, the temple of Vespasianus, the column of Phocas, the house of the Vestals ....

But here is the sun and suddenly it's warm.

Then to the Campidoglio***: on the Piazza del Campidoglio***, magnificent palazzi, and the statue of Marcus Aurelius - a copy, the original is to be seen at the Palazzo Nuovo, Musei Capitolini. From here we have an imposing view at the Forum Romanum. Then we reach the Piazza Venezia, a little lower, and the Chiesa del Gesù.

It's lunch time: at the Largo Torre Argentina we find a nice terrace.

Later on we discover the commercial area of the Via del Plebiscito, the Via del Corso, and so we arrive at the Fontana di Trevi. The very beautiful fountain of Trevi is an imposing baroque monument, one of the most visited places of Rome. Kaat will throw two coins, one to come back to Rome, the second to be certain that her wish will be granted.

The hot weather is an invitation to enjoy a ice-cream from Il Gelato di S. Crispino, one of the best known "gelaterie" of Rome, in the Via della Panetteria.

Before going back to Ostia, we will see the Piazza di Spagna. On our way luxurious shops now in little streets: Versace, Armani, Gucci, Prada, Bulgari ... International animation and atmosphere on the Piazza di Spagna.

04.06.08 From Riva di Traiano (Civitavecchia) to Porto Turistico di Roma-Ostia.

A nice day.

At 12H15 we berth at the Porto Turistico di Roma-Ostia. We left Civitavecchia at 7 a.m., and navigated 27 miles mostly with main sail and the engine. When we start the weak wind was rather astern but the see little confused.

The last 10NM the wind was seriously freshening and the see building up. When we were approaching Porto turistico we have noted a full 5Bft: the waves were rolling joyfully under our boat. The boat was then running 6,4 kts what's not usual! Kaat took the helm because our pilot was loosing his calm.

Porto turistico di Roma is a large marina, rather new, offering all equipment, services and facilities, and a good welcome, but not save to enter with heavy onshore winds. Inside the shelter is excellent.

For our 27' we have to pay 27 euro - while the marina is reported to be expensive ...

Since a long time - since Le Lavandou - Nehalinnia is moored alongside the pontoon, in all quietness!

On our way to San Pietro***, we have a short lunch stop - it's pranzo time!. We will not visit the inside of the basilica ( there are a lot of visitors and we have to wait a long time for the scanning control ). But we will have a magnificent panorama*** from the Castello Sant'Angelo*** (8 euro), near the river Tevere - at a short distance of the via della Conciliazione. From the bridge Ponte Sant'Angelo we take the via Coronari; through this picturesque antique dealers area - ice-cream stop at the Gelateria del Theatro Coronari - we reach the Piazza Novana***; the Fountain of the Rivers (the Danube, the Ganges, the Rio de la Plata, and the Nile - the four parts of the world - ) is hidden by restoration works. This large square is certainly the square with the biggest number of terraces: musicians, painters, and other artists are waiting for the visitors and their

12.06.08 Ostia-Lido di Roma, a long beach, small, a Promenade - il lungomare - even long: this is "Rome-at-sea". The beach - la spaggia, with the numerous concessions, but access remains possible and free! -, bars, some real beach restaurants, wooden constructions or nice hard constructions. Everything is clean, well kept and painted. Here the customers are young, there, it's the meeting place of a more wealthy middle-class. On the NW side, close to the new harbour - Porto turistico di Roma, with all the equipments, by day, open to all people: restaurants, gelaterie, shops, boutiques, and even a banking agency, but, at night, closed, guarded - are the more popular and poor districts of Ostia, some really decayed: washing is drying on the windows, roads are in poor conditions, walls covered with graffiti, some burned cars, here and there rubbish .... But there are flowers on the terraces, and the atmosphere is not desperate, on the contrary.

Yesterday we have visited Ostia Antica [ Photo album ] : this ancient harbour of Rome is with Pompei and Herculaneum one of the most important excavation sites. The excavation works started in the beginning of the XX th century. Here 50.000 people were living: a city of shop-keepers, traders and haulage contractors. A town with buildings, villas, temples - a large theatre - a Capitole, forums, but also a town with numerous shops, business, workshops, warehouses. Real impressive!

We took advantage of our Rome stop to get an appointment at the hospital of Ostia for Eric's routine treatment, so that it will not be a preoccupation during the rest of our Italian trip. So, today it's the big day: an interesting experience, a confrontation with the health system that we will share today with the Italians!

13.06.08 Our third one-day-visit of Rome, from Roma-Ostia Porto turistico. ( see "Kortom" , " Porto turistico di Roma"). [ Photo album ]

No a discovering-walk to-day but a meeting with artists and their master-pieces.

At the Basilica San Pietro we want to see the Pieta, this early work of Michel-Angelo, and the dome, also from Michel-Angelo.

Later on we visit the Musei Vaticani. We have our visiting-list: the Venus of Cnidos, the Laocoon-group, the Apollo of the Belvedere, and the Perseus, this for the Greek-Roman part; of course the Stanze Rafaeli and in the Sixtine Chapel the vault, other magnificent work of Michel-Angelo, and wall paintings from Botticelli; in the Pinacoteca work of Raphael, of Leonardo da Vinci and of il Caravaggio.

But we will see more, a consequence of the track of the visit: wonderful tapestries realised in Brussels by Pieter van Aelst. Unexpected meetings with Dali and Botero! And before closing time, when visitors are leaving the museum we return to the Sistine Chapel ...

A wonderful museum ... !

And we had only 4 minutes to wait ... to buy our tickets!

We like the atmosphere of Rome: so before going back to Ostia, we make a detour through those small and so pleasant streets, again, to the Piazza Novana and the Piazza di Spagna, where the music band of the Italian Navy is giving a concert on this early Saturday evening ...